Intrigue Behind the Façade of the Palazzo di Bianca Cappello

One of the reasons I always suggest for people to take a tour of Florence (and the other major historic cities) is that you can learn so many interesting things about the history of the monuments and the city itself. When walking the streets of Florence there are so many beautiful buildings to admire that often people just pass them by, without even noticing the particular architectural features and certainly unaware of their historical significance. Except for the major monuments, most visitors don’t realize how many of these lovely palazzi have a story to tell.

Due to its particular façade, this building might stand out when walking down Via Maggio. Known as the Palazzo di Bianca Cappello, it was built between 1570 and 1574 by the architect Bernardo Buontalenti, on the foundations of the original structure dating from the early 1400s. However, it’s the story behind the building that makes it unique. Commissioned by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Franceso I de’Medici, for his mistress, Bianca Cappello, a Venetian noblewoman with whom he had fallen madly in love. He chose the site especially for its proximity to the Pitti Palace, his official residence, making it easy for him to visit his lover frequently. Their affair proved to be one of the most scandalous of the Renaissance period – as Francesco was married to Giovanna of Austria, and Bianca to Pietro Buonaventuri – who was (conveniently?) murdered on the streets of Florence in 1572.  

Bianca Capppello

After Giovanna’s premature death, Francesco was able to marry Bianca in 1579 and she then moved into Palazzo Pitti. Yet their story did not have a happy ending, as the Medici family was opposed to their relationship from the start and it is suspected that the couple’s death at the Medici Villa in Poggio a Caiano only 8 years later (and within hours of each other) might have been the result of poisoning.

The palazzo had been donated to the Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova when Bianca became grand duchess and it was then that the façade was painted with this particular decoration called sgraffito by Bernardino Poccetti. Today, the building belongs to the city of Florence and is used as an archive for the scientific and cultural institute Gabinetto Vieusseux.

Florence’s Synagogue

High above the red roofs of Florence there is a large green dome that dominates the skyline to the East of the historic center. This is the city’s synagogue, built between 1874 and 1882 thanks to the large donation left by David Levi, president of the Hebrew University, to construct a place of worship for Florentine Jews, "worthy of the Renaissance city". The project and its realization were a tribute to Florence’s progressive nature at the time, with the joint effort of both Christian and Jewish architects resulting in an impressive example of eclectic architecture that reflected a variety of styles: Moorish, Byzantine, Arab, and Florentine – fused to create a unique and beautiful building.

photo: www.museumsinflorence.com

The history of the Jewish community in Florence probably dates as far back as the Romans. Initially they lived in the area between the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Passera. However, in 1571, Cosimo I commissioned the construction of a Jewish ghetto in the area near the old market (now Piazza della Repubblica). It was not until 1848 that the ghetto was opened, and only in 1870, with the unification of Italy, was it finally demolished. This event led the Jewish community to look for a place to build their synagogue and a plot of land was chosen in the Mattonaia quarter, a new area of the city between Piazza D’Azeglio and Piazza Sant’Ambrogio where expansion was in full force at the end of the 19^th century.

Today, the synagogue remains an active religious and cultural center for the Florentine community. It represents one of the most beautiful Jewish temples in Europe and is very much worth a visit, both from an artistic and a historic point of view. There is also a museum where you can learn about the history of Florentine Jews and view religious artefacts dating back from the 1600s.

photo: www.visiongallery.com

Torre della Pagliazza

One of the reasons it is always a great idea to take a guided tour of Florence (or of any other major city or town in Tuscany) is that you can learn so many interesting facts about the history and architecture. Almost all of the ancient buildings have a story behind them - which if unveiled, makes for a much more engaging visit than if you just observe the facades. A good guide knows how to bring the past back to life and invites you to enter that world in order to fully experience and appreciate the history. 

Often there are places you might miss on your own. An example is the Torre della Pagliazza (The Straw Tower)  - which is tucked away in a small piazza in one of the city’s most ancient areas, dating back to the Romans. If you don’t know anything about it, you might just think it's a pretty old stone tower that belongs to a beautiful four-star hotel. Yet, it is considered to be one of Florence’s oldest buildings, probably built between the 6^th and 7^th centuries on the circular foundations of a Roman bath.

It also has a unique history, from which its name derives. The reason it is called the Straw Tower is that in the 13th century it became the first women’s prison in Florence, and the inmates slept on straw mattresses (which was actually considered a luxury for prisoners in those days). Subsequently it served as the bell tower for the small church of Saint Michael right next to it, and in the late 1700s it became part of a private residence. 

It is no wonder that the elegant historic tower and the charming setting of Piazza Santa Elisabetta were a major draw for the luxury hotel industry, and in 2011, the upscale Hotel Brunelleschi opened its Tower Bar and restaurant on the site, leaving a small museum in the basement. 

Discover Volterra

Among the wonderful towns in Tuscany that are very much worth visiting is Volterra.

Located between Pisa and Siena, this ancient hamlet has origins that go back as far as the Neolithic Age. Its elevated position, 1770 feet above sea level, made it ideal as an urban center for the Etruscans, who in the 4^th century B.C. erected the great defensive wall that extended for more than 7 kilometers, encircling the town and the surrounding arable land. Known as Velathri, it became one of the twelve city states of Etruria – and the Etruscan Acropolis remains one of the obligatory stops when visiting Volterra today. Subsequently, the Romans changed its name to Volaterrae and left their mark, namely by building a theater, another major tourist attraction, and a vast residential area in the neighborhood of Vallebona.

photo: kerrick (Renato P.) via Paradiso...Toscana

photo: Guardia di Porta via Paradiso...Toscana

Over the centuries Volterra has preserved its historic charm and continues to fascinate and draw visitors from all over the world. Recently brought into the limelight by “The Twilight Saga”, this magical town has become an even more sought after location for curious fans.

Rich with history – first as a medieval stronghold and the bishop’s residence, then later under the rule of Florence and the Medici, the town grew to have beautiful monuments and impressive architecture – including the charming narrow streets that create a romantic atmosphere and leave visitors with the feeling that they have stepped back in time.

Photo: Guardia di Porta via Paradiso...Toscana

For over two thousand years Volterra has been famous for its alabaster, and the tradition of working with this unique material, although greatly diminished over the years, is still continued by a number of proud local artisans.

Photo: lilianka via Paradiso...Toscana

The beautiful local countryside is also a strong point of this area. The green landscapes and gentle rolling hills are the stunning backdrop of Volterra.

A unique opportunity for hikers is to take the scenic trail that was formerly the “Salt Route” leading to San Gimignano. In fact, salt was one of the primary sources of wealth for Volterra through history.

Another important event hosted by the town is Volterragusto – a food festival held in late October, and again in March, which celebrates the areas eno-gastronomic tradition and especially the delicious and world famous local white truffles.

Wine and Tourism Give Italy a Boost of Optimism

It is well known that the current economic situation in Italy is anything but favorable. With an unstable political scenario, a growing recession and widespread public malcontent, these days when you open a local newspaper there is almost never any good news to be found. Italians are bombarded by the term “crisi” (literally, crisis) which is used to refer not only to the very difficult economic situation, but also to the deeper social and political turmoil that is plaguing the nation. To recover will require making some fundamental structural changes on all levels. Yet it is important to recognize that the population also needs to have hope – and determination  - to weather the storm and come out stronger. Right now there is a very high level of generalized pessimism regarding the future and this is one of the issues that needs to be addressed.

Castello di Monsanto

By trying to focus on those things that do work in this country, we can perhaps learn something. Despite the dismal local market, certain sectors have managed not only to hold their own but even to grow during the past couple of years. Wine producers are among the leaders in this fortunate community: the famous Antinori estate ranks among the top earning companies overall in Italy. Thanks to foreign investments and exports, the sales of Italian (and especially Tuscan) wine has increased. However, at the core of this success is the focus on excellence which has proven to be a winning strategy, not only for the big names, but even for smaller producers who have dedicated their efforts to creating a high-quality product.

The recent figures for tourism, although not what they could be – especially due to the decrease in domestic travel - are still not as bad as in other sectors, and in some areas they have been outright positive. Tuscany has become the nation’s leader, thanks to a growing effort to promote quality tourism accessible to all. The attitude of the locals has been changing and improving, as they strive to welcome visitors with a more genuine sense of hospitality and respect. This can be seen by the effort of both  public administrators and tourism operators to improve their services - and the positive results are evident. Sitting back and taking things for granted will get us nowhere. 

When I post all the lovely photos on my Facebook page, or promote Tuscany’s beautiful territory, I do so not only because of my business, but because I truly believe in this wonderful place. In fact, the business idea was actually born from my love of Tuscany. But I am not living outside reality. As an expat I have had (and continue to have) my share of frustrating moments and can easily see the shortcomings in many of Italy’s bureaucratic and public services. Yet, there are so many extraordinary things here that are worth sharing with others - and reminding the locals about. It is precisely the good things that need to become our compass during these difficult times. We must draw energy and inspiration from our surroundings and seek to capitalize on the potential that is there. Hopefully if everyone can tap into these resources, even if it is for a morale boost, there will come a day when the word “crisi” goes out of style. 

Spring Break or Wine Harvest in Tuscany

This is an AMAZING OFFER for a DISCOUNTED STAY in a BEAUTIFUL LUXURY VILLA!

3 NIGHTS are FREE if you stay from May 13^th to the 25^th  or from Sept. 28^th to Oct. 10^th.

Spend up to 12 nights in this extraordinary villa in the heart of Chianti for as little as 75 Euro a night per person! This is a unique opportunity to really discover the beauty of Tuscany by enjoying an extended stay during two of the nicest seasons of the year. Don’t wait, contact us to find out more.  www.newtuscanexperience.com

Yoga Retreat in Tuscany

Come joins us for a wonderful YOGA RETREAT IN TUSCANY! OCT. 19-26

We are proud to announce a wonderful Yoga Retreat and Tuscany Experience designed for:
Donna Amrita Davidge, teaching yoga for nearly 30 years in New York City. Donna also owns and operates Sewall House Yoga Retreat in Maine (chosen top ten worldwide online by Gayot 2009/2010) with her husband Kent Bonham, Swedish chef, musician and massage therapist. Visit their website for more about their teaching www.sewallhouse.com orwww.donnadavidgeyoga.com.

You are invited to their 3rd destination trip to Tuscany, in the heart of Chianti for yoga twice daily, a beautiful setting, delicious vegetarian meals and great outings. We have worked hard to create a wonderful balance between yoga and destination discovery - in one of the world's most sought after locations. Find out more and reserve your place for this unique adventure.

Contact Donna directly at info@sewallhouse.com or call 646-316-5151/toll free 888-235-2395 with inquiries or to make a deposit to secure your space. 

Places are limited, as we are seeking a small group experience. We hope to hear from you!