The Intricacies of Having Coffee in Italy...

For years I have had to explain to foreign visitors why Italians (myself included) often do not sit down in coffee shops to have their espresso. In a country famed for "taking it slow" - even too much so – it is clearly a contradiction that the Italian-style coffee break normally involves standing at a counter to quickly drink a cappuccino and eat a pastry. Especially unusual is the fact that there are often plenty of charming tables inside the coffee shop, or even more invitingly just outside the door facing a pretty piazza, sitting empty (unless occupied by tourists).

So, why is it that most Italians don’t like to sit and enjoy their coffee? The answer is simple, because they prefer not to pay double (and sometimes even more than six times) what they pay at the counter. Yes, sitting down comes at a high price in most establishments. When you are in the historic center of a major city or tourist town, you’d best be aware of this “little” secret. Too often foreign visitors are stunned to receive their bill after ordering a simple espresso or a common beverage, and many are downright outraged if they have dared to order something more costly, like a mixed drink or a glass of wine. It is true that the coffee shop will present you with a menu, where you can clearly see the hefty cost of their offerings. However, many unknowing tourists who just want something commonplace, like a cappuccino, don’t even ask for a menu – they just order directly, and that’s where the rude awakening is guaranteed.

Unfortunately, this practice has been in force forever – and it is unlikely to change. The country’s prominent coffee shops defend their prices by citing the elegance of their venues and the prime location (after all it’s hard to defend a 9 Euro espresso, no matter how good it is!) So, the best thing is to be forewarned. Sometimes, it might even be worth it to pay 10 dollars for a Coke in order to spend a half-hour respite looking at something as beautiful and unique as the Pantheon in Rome or the Duomo in Florence – after all how often do you get to do it? However, for many (especially the locals) paying this high toll is a bit steep, and certainly not something you can do daily. So, unless you find the coffee shop that is a bit removed from the tourist circuit, which will allow you to sit down with your order at no additional charge, you are best to read the menu first, before you sit down, or just join the Italians at the counter!

The Palio of Siena

It’s Palio time again in Siena. August 16th signals the second event of the summer (after the one held on July 2nd), when 10 of Siena’s 17 contrade (city wards) compete in a traditional bareback horse race in the famous Piazza del Campo. The August race was added in the 18^th century, probably as a way to continue the festivities from the holiday on August 15th dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. In fact, this Palio bears the name “Palio dell’Assunta”.

This important annual event has become one of Siena’s most famous tourist attractions – drawing thousands of visitors from all over Italy and the world. Prior to the race there is a magnificent pageant, called the Corteo Storico, where participants are dressed in the regalia of the Middle Ages to celebrate the historic customs and greatness of the Republic of Siena. The procession includes marching bands, flag throwers, musicians, horse riders, and an array of historical reenactments.

In the evening, it is time for the horse race, which lasts only three laps around the piazza, covered in several inches of dirt for the occasion. The intensity of the local rivalries and the relatively dangerous race track often make the 90-second competition quite treacherous for both the horses and the jockeys. The winner is always the horse that crosses the finish line first – with or without its rider – and it is typical to see whips being used not only on the rider’s own horse, but also on those of others, to spook or distract them.

In many ways, the Palio is a real journey back in time – as the people of Siena resort to using techniques and behavior typical of another era. The lack of fair play, by plotting against rivals and rejoicing at their defeat, is all part of this historic game, which is not always looked upon favorably by humane associations or those citizens who feel it represents a violent and outdated ritual that too often results in serious injuries to both the horses and their jockeys.

The Palio is without a doubt a majestic pageant, but it is also controversial for the obvious absence of good sportsmanship and its often dubious practices – rooted in centuries of tradition, rivalries and passion, as alive today as they were hundreds of years ago.

Ferragosto

August 15^th is called Ferragosto in Italy – the holiday synonymous with summer vacation.

In the past, those forced to stay in the city during the month of August would be faced with living in a ghost town - especially during the week of Ferragosto. Factories and businesses throughout the country would close their doors at the beginning of the month and workers would flock to the beach, or the mountains, for their annual month-long holiday. For decades, Italy basically shut down during August. Most everything was closed (usually for the entire month – but definitely for the week of Ferragosto) and finding something to buy or to do if not in a tourist location was nearly impossible.

However, times are slowly changing. Whether it’s because of the global market or the hurting local economy, this year the August city dwellers will find themselves in good company. To start, very few businesses can afford to close for a month, and the “innovative” concept of having employees take their vacations in turns – and not allowing them to use all 4 weeks at once – has become commonplace. Another reason is certainly that most families are hard-pressed to finance extravagant long vacations. In fact, this year is showing a huge drop in summer travel by Italians. Most are remaining within national borders and limiting their stays to a week (or even less) – and an unprecedented number is not taking a vacation at all.

Going on summer vacation in the 1950s -  photo: Fucinaeditore.it

In many ways, this shift in vacation patterns was inevitable. Italy could not expect to be part of the European (and global) economy while continuing its 11 month work calendar. The hope is that the recession will soon ease, so that people who have worked hard will at least be able to take some vacation, and those who lack work will soon find it. 

In the meantime, for those “stuck” in Florence this August, the good news is that not everything is closed. You can even go to a museum on Ferragosto! Many of the city’s major galleries will remain open - so the 15^th  might prove to be a good day (with fewer crowds) to take advantage of the city's cultural offerings.

Intrigue Behind the Façade of the Palazzo di Bianca Cappello

One of the reasons I always suggest for people to take a tour of Florence (and the other major historic cities) is that you can learn so many interesting things about the history of the monuments and the city itself. When walking the streets of Florence there are so many beautiful buildings to admire that often people just pass them by, without even noticing the particular architectural features and certainly unaware of their historical significance. Except for the major monuments, most visitors don’t realize how many of these lovely palazzi have a story to tell.

Due to its particular façade, this building might stand out when walking down Via Maggio. Known as the Palazzo di Bianca Cappello, it was built between 1570 and 1574 by the architect Bernardo Buontalenti, on the foundations of the original structure dating from the early 1400s. However, it’s the story behind the building that makes it unique. Commissioned by the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Franceso I de’Medici, for his mistress, Bianca Cappello, a Venetian noblewoman with whom he had fallen madly in love. He chose the site especially for its proximity to the Pitti Palace, his official residence, making it easy for him to visit his lover frequently. Their affair proved to be one of the most scandalous of the Renaissance period – as Francesco was married to Giovanna of Austria, and Bianca to Pietro Buonaventuri – who was (conveniently?) murdered on the streets of Florence in 1572.  

Bianca Capppello

After Giovanna’s premature death, Francesco was able to marry Bianca in 1579 and she then moved into Palazzo Pitti. Yet their story did not have a happy ending, as the Medici family was opposed to their relationship from the start and it is suspected that the couple’s death at the Medici Villa in Poggio a Caiano only 8 years later (and within hours of each other) might have been the result of poisoning.

The palazzo had been donated to the Hospital of Santa Maria Nuova when Bianca became grand duchess and it was then that the façade was painted with this particular decoration called sgraffito by Bernardino Poccetti. Today, the building belongs to the city of Florence and is used as an archive for the scientific and cultural institute Gabinetto Vieusseux.

Florence’s Synagogue

High above the red roofs of Florence there is a large green dome that dominates the skyline to the East of the historic center. This is the city’s synagogue, built between 1874 and 1882 thanks to the large donation left by David Levi, president of the Hebrew University, to construct a place of worship for Florentine Jews, "worthy of the Renaissance city". The project and its realization were a tribute to Florence’s progressive nature at the time, with the joint effort of both Christian and Jewish architects resulting in an impressive example of eclectic architecture that reflected a variety of styles: Moorish, Byzantine, Arab, and Florentine – fused to create a unique and beautiful building.

photo: www.museumsinflorence.com

The history of the Jewish community in Florence probably dates as far back as the Romans. Initially they lived in the area between the Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Passera. However, in 1571, Cosimo I commissioned the construction of a Jewish ghetto in the area near the old market (now Piazza della Repubblica). It was not until 1848 that the ghetto was opened, and only in 1870, with the unification of Italy, was it finally demolished. This event led the Jewish community to look for a place to build their synagogue and a plot of land was chosen in the Mattonaia quarter, a new area of the city between Piazza D’Azeglio and Piazza Sant’Ambrogio where expansion was in full force at the end of the 19^th century.

Today, the synagogue remains an active religious and cultural center for the Florentine community. It represents one of the most beautiful Jewish temples in Europe and is very much worth a visit, both from an artistic and a historic point of view. There is also a museum where you can learn about the history of Florentine Jews and view religious artefacts dating back from the 1600s.

photo: www.visiongallery.com

Torre della Pagliazza

One of the reasons it is always a great idea to take a guided tour of Florence (or of any other major city or town in Tuscany) is that you can learn so many interesting facts about the history and architecture. Almost all of the ancient buildings have a story behind them - which if unveiled, makes for a much more engaging visit than if you just observe the facades. A good guide knows how to bring the past back to life and invites you to enter that world in order to fully experience and appreciate the history. 

Often there are places you might miss on your own. An example is the Torre della Pagliazza (The Straw Tower)  - which is tucked away in a small piazza in one of the city’s most ancient areas, dating back to the Romans. If you don’t know anything about it, you might just think it's a pretty old stone tower that belongs to a beautiful four-star hotel. Yet, it is considered to be one of Florence’s oldest buildings, probably built between the 6^th and 7^th centuries on the circular foundations of a Roman bath.

It also has a unique history, from which its name derives. The reason it is called the Straw Tower is that in the 13th century it became the first women’s prison in Florence, and the inmates slept on straw mattresses (which was actually considered a luxury for prisoners in those days). Subsequently it served as the bell tower for the small church of Saint Michael right next to it, and in the late 1700s it became part of a private residence. 

It is no wonder that the elegant historic tower and the charming setting of Piazza Santa Elisabetta were a major draw for the luxury hotel industry, and in 2011, the upscale Hotel Brunelleschi opened its Tower Bar and restaurant on the site, leaving a small museum in the basement. 

Discover Volterra

Among the wonderful towns in Tuscany that are very much worth visiting is Volterra.

Located between Pisa and Siena, this ancient hamlet has origins that go back as far as the Neolithic Age. Its elevated position, 1770 feet above sea level, made it ideal as an urban center for the Etruscans, who in the 4^th century B.C. erected the great defensive wall that extended for more than 7 kilometers, encircling the town and the surrounding arable land. Known as Velathri, it became one of the twelve city states of Etruria – and the Etruscan Acropolis remains one of the obligatory stops when visiting Volterra today. Subsequently, the Romans changed its name to Volaterrae and left their mark, namely by building a theater, another major tourist attraction, and a vast residential area in the neighborhood of Vallebona.

photo: kerrick (Renato P.) via Paradiso...Toscana

photo: Guardia di Porta via Paradiso...Toscana

Over the centuries Volterra has preserved its historic charm and continues to fascinate and draw visitors from all over the world. Recently brought into the limelight by “The Twilight Saga”, this magical town has become an even more sought after location for curious fans.

Rich with history – first as a medieval stronghold and the bishop’s residence, then later under the rule of Florence and the Medici, the town grew to have beautiful monuments and impressive architecture – including the charming narrow streets that create a romantic atmosphere and leave visitors with the feeling that they have stepped back in time.

Photo: Guardia di Porta via Paradiso...Toscana

For over two thousand years Volterra has been famous for its alabaster, and the tradition of working with this unique material, although greatly diminished over the years, is still continued by a number of proud local artisans.

Photo: lilianka via Paradiso...Toscana

The beautiful local countryside is also a strong point of this area. The green landscapes and gentle rolling hills are the stunning backdrop of Volterra.

A unique opportunity for hikers is to take the scenic trail that was formerly the “Salt Route” leading to San Gimignano. In fact, salt was one of the primary sources of wealth for Volterra through history.

Another important event hosted by the town is Volterragusto – a food festival held in late October, and again in March, which celebrates the areas eno-gastronomic tradition and especially the delicious and world famous local white truffles.